Supersize My Seabream
When Kisenosato Yutaka became the first Japanese-born sumo wrestler in two decades to win a grand champion title, he proudly posed for photographers at a press conference. Like any victorious athlete displaying a trophy, the ruddy cheeked, 178-kilogram wrestler took a moment to hoist aloft a prized symbol of his hard-won status—a huge reddish-hued fish.
In Japan, the red seabream has a celebrity status. Its importance stems in part from its name, madai, which sounds similar to the Japanese term omedetai, meaning “congratulatory” or “auspicious,” says Merry White...
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