After China Turned it into a Cheap Snack, Caviar is at Risk of Losing its Status as a Luxury Good
It was a 1980s Wall Street cliche. Tiny pancakes, huge egos and gobs of glossy black fish eggs from the Caspian Sea hoovered up on little mother-of-pearl spoons. Beluga, osetra and sevruga — most Americans had no idea these were species of sturgeon, but it was clear eating a whole lot of salted, unfertilized roe was a signal that you had arrived.
Fast-forward to 2019, and caviar’s image is muddier. Cheap Chinese caviar is...
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